Are fashion personas a dated phenomenon, Girogio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto and so on… ? Has society move beyond worshipping the cult of the personality and up to a more profound level where style is held in higher regard than the hype generated around a single personality. Maybe the question is even, has the Internet helped fashion evolve from a monarchy (cult of personality) to a democracy?
Yohji Yamamoto gets personal.
“I was wearing a rock ‘n’ roll T-shirt and black trousers when I first decided to be a fashion designer because I didn’t want to disturb people’s eyes,” he said in his soon-to-be-released documentary, This Is My Dream. “Colour disturbs people. I am confident in black, not in light. This dark side of life is attractive to me forever and from the beginnings. I am a lazy designer when it comes to colour. The body is the important thing to me – it is the beginning of my work.”
he goes on…
“No one in the world looks the same and no woman has the same body,” he explained. “I can keep working because the woman’s body is always mysterious. Dress-making doesn’t ever lie because cannot lie – they show everything.”
Yohji Yamamoto – This Is My Dream
YOHJI YAMAMOTO Designer Profile.
1966 Graduated from Keio University, Tokyo
1969 Received two leading fashion awards, the So-en Award and the Endo Award
1969 Graduated from Bunka Fashion College, Tokyo
1977 Presented the first collection in Tokyo
1981 Presented the first collection in Paris
1982 Presented first collection in New York
Received the 26th Fashion Editors Club (FEC) Award, Tokyo
1984 Presented the first menswear collection in Paris
1986 Received the 4th Mainichi Fashion Award, Tokyo
1989 Wim Wenders’ film portrait of Yohji Yamamoto “Notebook on Cities and Clothes”
1990 Designed costumes for the Opera de Lyon production of Puccini’s “Madame Butterfly”
1991 Received the 35th Fashion Editors Club (FEC) Award, Tokyo
1993 Designed costumes for the Wagner Opera “Tristan and Isolde” in Bayreuth
1994 Received the “Chevalier de L’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres”
from the French Minister of Culture
Received the 12th Mainichi Fashion Award, Tokyo
Designed costumes for the Kanagawa Art Festival Opera “Susanoo”
1996 Presented the first perfume “YOHJI”
1997 Received the 40th Fashion Editors Club (FEC) Designer’s Award, Tokyo
Received the Night of Stars Award from Fashion Group, New York
1998 Received the Award “Arte e Moda” given by Pitti Immagine, Florence
1999 Received the 18th Annual Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)
Awards’ “International Award”, New York
Designed costumes for Ryuichi Sakamoto’s Opera “LIFE”
1999 Designed costumes for Takeshi Kitano’s film “BROTHER”
2002 “TALKING TO MYSELF” by Yohji Yamamoto published
Appointed as creative director for Y-3, Sports Style Division of adidas
Presented the first collection of Y’s in Paris
“Received Bronze medal of the “Die schönten deutschen Bücher 2002”
(The most beautiful books in the world 2002), Leipzig Book Fair for “”TALKING TO MYSELF”
Exhibited ?May I help you? at Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris
Designed costumes for Takeshi Kitano’s film “Dolls”
2003 Exhibited “Yohji Yamamoto : May I help you” at Hara Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo
Supervised costume for Takeshi Kitano’s film “Zatoichi”
2004 Received the Medal with Purple Ribbon from the Government of Japan
2005 Received the rank of Officer in the National Order of Merit from the French president
Exhibited “CORRESPONDENCES : YOHJI YAMAMOTO” at the Modern Art Gallery of
the Palazzo Pitti (Firenze,Italy)
Exhibited “Yohji Yamamoto: Juste des vêtements” at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile (Paris, France)
Launch of the A magazine curated by Yohji Yamamoto
Designed costumes for Takeshi Kitano’s film “TAKESHIS’ ”
2006 Exhibited “Yohji Yamamoto-Dream Shop” at the Mode Museum (Antwerp, Belgium)
Received Honorary Royal Designer for Industry from Royal Society of Arts
2008 Received Honorary Doctor from University of the Arts London
2010 Presented Yohji Yamamoto (Homme) collection “YOHJI YAMAMOTO THE MEN 4.1 2010 TOKYO”
first time after 19 years
2011 “MY DEAR BOMB” by Yohji Yamamoto published
Next spring the V&A will open the first UK solo exhibition celebrating the life and work of Yohji Yamamoto, one of the world’s most influential and enigmatic fashion designers. This installation-based retrospective, taking place 30 years after his Paris debut, will feature over 80 garments spanning Yamamoto’s career. The exhibition will explore the work of a designer who has challenged, provoked and inspired the fashion world.
Yamamoto’s visionary designs will be exhibited on mannequins amongst the treasures of the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A). Placed in hidden corners of the Museum, the silhouettes will create a direct dialogue between Yamamoto’s work and the different spaces in which they are displayed. Items will be found on the Leighton corridor, in the Norfolk House Music Room and looking out onto the John Madejski Garden from an alcove in the Hintze Sculpture Galleries. Other pieces will be sited on marble staircases, adjacent to Renaissance sculptures in the Renaissance City Gallery and within the Tapestry Gallery.
The exhibition will run from 12 March until 10 July 2011.
The exhibition will be designed by Yamamoto’s long-time collaborator, scenographer and lighting designer Masao Nihei. The main exhibition space will see over 60 garments from Yamamoto’s womenswear and menswear collections accompanied by a mixed-media timeline showing excerpts from his fashion shows, films and performances, graphic material and select photographs which will contextualise his career. Following Yamamoto’s previous solo exhibitions in Florence Correspondences (2005), Paris Juste des Vêtements (2005) and Antwerp Dream Shop (2006), this UK retrospective will exhibit items from his menswear collections for the first time.
Yohji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo in 1943 and studied at Keio University then Bunka Fashion College, by 1972 he set up his own company Y’s Incorporated. From the start of his career Yamamoto’s work was recognised for challenging the conventions of fashion.
The asymmetric cuts and seemingly unflattering curves of his early work contradicted the Photograph by Ronald Stoops close-fitted styles of the catwalks and he has refused traditional norms of fashion ever since.
Yamamoto’s designs have rewritten notions of beauty in fashion, and the playful androgyny of his work creates new modalities of gender identity. His collections are recognised for subverting gender stereotypes and have featured women wearing garments traditionally associated with menswear. Included in the exhibition will be menswear items from the Autumn/Winter 1998 season which was famously modelled on women.
Yamamoto’s fabrics are central to his design practise and are a trademark of his work. Supporting craftspeople in and around Kyoto, his textiles are created to specification often employing traditional Japanese dyeing and embroidery techniques such as Shibori and Yu-zen. The selection of works on show will give visitors the opportunity to study examples of Yamamoto’s application of traditional Japanese techniques.
Following its global retail concepts of minimalist black and white, Y3 opened its first pop-up store in Cannes, France. The temporary store is launched in collaboration with blanch and located at the new blanch Contemporary Space on Boulevard de la Croisette. The venue has a multifunctional structure and houses an innovative project which allows luxury brands to occupy the building from one to three months.
The retail space will present Y-3’s SS10 men’s and women’s collection including iconic footwear, travelwear, accessories range as well as signature apparel pieces from April 28th to June 29th, 2010.The Y-3 pop-up store features 200sqm one-level inner space is completed by a 100sqm private garden. This will be Y-3’s second stand-alone store in France, the first one opened in Paris on Rue Etienne-Marcel in August of 2007.
Y-3 Autumn/Winter 2010 at New York Fashion Week. Yamamoto turned out a dark collection of billowing tops, capes and bottoms that took his vision for Adidas to the next level. Infusing sportswear with a tongue-in-cheek formality, Yamamoto delivered a great variety of lively pieces that were not complete without his signature oversize fit.
French soccer icon Zinedine Zidane and Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto have joined forces for an ad campaign in the run-up to this summer’s World Cup – and it turns out the two have more in common than meets the eye. “He doesn’t talk a lot, and that’s just fine,” the famously taciturn Zidane said at a Paris presentation for Y-3, the collaboration between Yamamoto and athletic brand Adidas.
Set to break in March in magazines including V and V Man, the ads depict Yamamoto as coach to Zidane’s team. The player, however, was reluctant to take on the mantle of fashion guru. “If I have any advice to give, it’s on the soccer front,” he said.
The Gotham boutiques of Yohji Yamamoto in Grand Street and Gansevoort quietly shuttered its doors. As announced last October, the Japanese label filed for bankruptcy in Tokyo.
Yohji Yamamoto is also conspicuously absent from the Paris Menswear catwalk schedule though you can make an appointment to see the Menswear Fall 2010 collection from January 22 – 28, 2010 at its Rue Saint Martin showroom in Paris’ third arrondisement.
So the question has been raised, should it be Y3 or Y-3. If there’s no hyphen there’s no bond!
The Y Stands for Yohji Yamamoto. The 3 represents Adidas’s three signature stripes and the – signifies the bond between the two.
While a utilitarian inspiration is evident throughout each collection, Y-3 possesses a technical feel on unexpected silhouettes to provide contemporary sportswear with a unique look. In 2009, Y-3 celebrated 60 years of iconic three stripes. This season, Yohji Yamamoto and adidas explore a more masculine approach to the themes of movement and expression. Inspired by uniform silhouettes, militarism and Japanese tailoring, this seasons aesthetic empathasizes precise proportions, fine details and the contrast of luxe winter fabrics with sport functional elements.
In 1981 Yohji Yamamoto presented his first Yohji Yamamoto collection in Paris and in 1984 he presented his first Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme collection . Yohji Yamamoto designed a collection for women based on men’s garments, cut in uncluttered shapes, washed fabrics and dark colors.These clothes expressed a functional elegance that Yohji Yamamoto would reaffirm, a few years later with Y’s for men. Fabric is always the starting point of Yohji’s design, and he is occasionally referred to as the Massimo Osti of the Far East because of the ingenuity and sublime practicality of his designs.
Yohji Yamamoto clothes destructured and ample In the begining, evolved through time into something more structured , fitted to the body in a spirit of couture -with- a- twist. The Yohji Yamamoto + Noir collection is based on classic and timeless pieces of theYohji Yamamoto line. Each season half of the collection changes, while the other half stays the same. Yohji Yamamoto +Noir is almost entirely black with a punctuation of bright colors.
Today the fashion-conscious buyer has the privilege of buying Yohji Yamamoto denimwear. Yohji jeans rival the very best denim and compare with RMC, Sugar Cane, Evisu and Kohzo.