In the 90s to early naughties, Evisu was one of the most sort after denim brands on the market. Founded by Hidehiko Yamane in 1991 in Osaka, Japan, Evisu Genes (aka Ebisu and Evis) was one of the most well-known traditional Japanese (raw) denim producers. Yamane was trained as a tailor and was “discovered” by the Ben Sherman leadership team. Moving into the mid naughties the brand started to lose its unique status and recognition and sales declined. But like all good fashion it looks like Evisu down-cycle is short lievd as it starts to gain the attention of a new younger audience. Keep your eyes peeled for the renaissance of the Evisu brand of related brands like Ijin Material and RMC.
Togged is offering a stunning collection of IJIN Material Jeans and Tops at an incredible 50% OFF. Take a butchers CLICK HERE
If you’re looking for a top notch denim bargain to ring in the New Year then look no further than the IJIN Material 50% Sitewide Sale! Everything from denim jeans to t-shirts are included in the sale, including some of the finest Italian denim jeans on the market, like the Ijin Material J5208-23L13 Verrt wash denim jeans.
The Sale also includes the Ijin Material Ijin vs Ninja jeans Limited Edition Collection for only £60! Ijin Material Ijin vs Ninja jeans Ijin Material limited edition 200 pairs, dark indigo dry denim jeans Regular fit, 12 ounce ring/ring denim leg Embroidered Ninja Mask on back pocket, Coin pocket with reinforced sewn mini Ninja Mask rivets Five pocket, button fly, hidden waistband button Double leather waist labels, taped inside seams Made in Italy.
Innovative Dry Cuts are what we have come to expect from alternative Jeanmaker, Phil Goss, however in recent seasons ‘‘The Ijin’’ has also been personally cooking up new concoctions in the new IJIN LAUNDRY & continues to break new ground with a current choice of up to twenty new Italian hand finishes, all specifically treated with secret wash recipes on 14oz Kurabo Aka mimi denim, for maximum effect & render.
Available at Togged
As if working denim like a blank canvas, the styling is kept to an essential minimum to allow the cloth treatments shine through, but like all Ijin Material jeans Red Line selvedge items are identified by the White, Left side VITELLO label & individual names such as ERRBA & SLITHA.
Every now & again nostalgia strikes & reminds us mere mortals that memories are part of our make-up.
In 2003 Phil Ijin had a vision of the alternative indigo item, with strong reference to the On Ko Chi Shin mentality & subliminal critical path for approach to design:”Respect the Past & Create the New.”
A modern day classic was born in the form of a denim jean that has stood the test of time & which we should remind ourselves , looks as fresh today as it did more than 6 years ago.There is still an understated elegance to the silhouette of this leg which is cut from a single piece of folded denim & has survived the initial onslaught of copies ( Hugo Boss launched a complete denim line based on the signature Ijin model : Shame on you….) because of the numerous & intricate heritage details & the default original & highly technical cutting method that Phil Ijin invented in the Ijin Italian workshop.
A stalwart for maintaining a slightly edgy, left field stance, The Foldedge Backstrap has firmly set the standard for contemporary 5 pocket denim & ranks as one of the true new Classics of the last decade, whilst still looking as fresh faced as ever in 2010.
As Rudyard Kipling said ”Lest We Forget”
Our British denim master living and working in Italy, Philip Goss, sent us some amazing stuff the past couple of weeks. A climax came this Wednesday when Phil sent us his Ijin version of the legendary Hickory stripe. Have a look at this stunning Ijin labour pant in red selvedge Hickory stripe with cambric pockets. Let the pictures speak for itself. More Ijin news and arrivals soon. IJIN MATERIAL
Stop press: Ijin Victorian backstraps photographed at secret location in North Europe.
Note that this style was run only ONCE & has not been seen in public for over 4 years.
Phil Goss & Ijin always insist on one thing ”every denim item does its duty”.Okay , so Admiral Horatio Nelson said something similar in 1805 at the onset of the Battle of Trafalgar , but one element remains clear here , to do things well we have to perform at our utmost best.
Denim is a beautiful cloth.We know this.And jeans are a religion. We know this too. But what makes jeans even more beautiful are the sum of it’s components & the jeansmaking recipe you cook up. One major factor applied in the indigo kitchen is the industrial jewellry you dress denim with. And we are talking about nailing cloths together here. In the Ijin handcrafting workshop we insist that ”nailing” the denim is as important as sewing it.
Here we see the customized Ijin copper rivet nails in all their resplendent ”red” beauty.
They will discolour & tarnish when worn, but at source they look like red gold. No ordinary ”pin” , these are double standard solid cast ,real copper nails ( not alloy or dipped ) & they will break the thicknesses of denim at stress points to such an extent that tufts of cloth are pushed out of the top cap.To the untrained eye this is unnoticeable, but to the connossieur this is a pedigree second to nothing else that we are talking premium item.
Using a grey-blue selvedge cloth adds authenticity to heritage denim Ijin pieces, but not before choosing an un-singed or ”hairy” denim , which is semi-finished rather than flat finished & leaves a fledgling flannel effect on the surface.
This leave absolutely no doubts that your are holding denim with a duty to uphold the standard…
Hot off the steam press are the latest limited edition irregular indigos presented by Ijin Material : ” Minijins”
A perfect replica of the original Foldedge ( tm ) cut Classic Backstrap in all its specialist glory , but only 22 inches tall.
Complete with shaved leather backstrap & standard Kuroki cloth base, these glass cabinet items are already a classified collectors item.
Just got this in from the Ninja camp : DJ KENTARO on his European tour was decked out in “Ninjins”!
” Ijin versus Ninja “Â is the working title of an exclusive garment collaboration between two independent and free spirited creative labels: Ijin Material , the left field denim label designed by Philip Goss,Â presents two limited edition dry ” Ninjin ” legs “, designed exclusively for Ninja Tune , the hugely influential london based record label, whose artiste collective offers such legendary namesÂ as Coldcut , and whose regular Solid Steel radio show mixes are aural collectors items.
These dry denim jeans are produced in a unique run of only 200 pieces, and are offered in a choice of embroidered logo back pockets :Â â€œNinja Maskâ€ or â€œSwarm of Eyesâ€ .
The â€œNinjin â€œ leg is a regular fit ,12 ounce , ring/ring denim leg, offered in 2Â denim coloursÂ : blue-black indigo & black denim.Â They are cut using the innovative â€œwrap-leg â€œ cutting technique , specialised by Ijin Material , where the outseam of the leg is cut folded & the hip fitting is sewn into the waist with a dart.
Basically each leg is cut as one piece, leaving no out seam below the knee & consequently a totally clean-finish chainstitched hem , when turned up. The trademark top button is always hidden , the coin pocket is reinforced with specially sewn mini ninja mask rivets , inside seams are taped & they even come with double leather waist labels.
The mini range includes two sweat shirt and two tee shirt designs and is initially available from the Ninja Tune web store & selected outlets from May onwards , while stocks last.
Here is an IJIN selvedge style that has been around for some time now : style J5207. This is from the IRRGLR (irregular) line Kurabo 13 oz denim with lots ofÂ “pops “, egg yolk stitch in 4 stitch sizes,white vitello label on left ( no logo )
This has a victorian backstrap ( sewn up into the waist ) & the infamous 6th pocket overlaid on the back ( with an halfman embroidery sewn in real indigo thread )
Real indigo thread is used on all seams/bar tacks that would be normally sewn in black……this is a key IJIN detail. The indigo obviously wears back in colour with the denim.
This model has inside military hanging loops & a ticking lined back yoke. The back crotch seam is the only seam sewn as a triple needle ( indestructible!). All IJIN actual selvedges are cut extra wide as you can see by the cuff.
Phil Goss of IJIN MATERIAL a man with an unrivalled denim pedigree!
Despite such a strong background in the field of traditional japanese jean-making, Philip Goss and ljin Material choose to make denim product with the clear intention of presenting the classic “leg” in an alternative way. The ethos of the brand is artisinal denim ideas. Whilst remaining strictly in the field of specialist jeans making , the ljin Material item purposley plays with distorting the rules of denim know-how & detailing and specifically avoids simply making vintage replicas. Italian based and produced , this free thinking label specialises in denim craftmanship and single production runs. The individualism of ljin Material centres around the “Half-Man” logo which symbolises the symmetrical folding techniques inherent to the way products are cut. Fanatical attention to detail is apparent in the manufacture, which uniquely minimises pattern pieces, reduces waste aswell as fully respecting the heritage of hand-made detailing.
Two principle cutting techniques identify ljin Material denim:
The highly original J5030 “foldedge-cut” leg was originated in 2003 as an idea to re-present the traditions of denim in an untraditional way. It is a highly deceptive item , with many common vintage details that have been either exaggerated or re-interpreted. This ” foldedge ” cutting technique is highly specialised, with the garment centred on the stronger warp thread and legs which will naturally collapse around the knee . This is where the fabric reaches near bias point,creating an inherent softness to the unwashed cloth. Worn from dry these ljin Material legs will render your wear patterns in a unique manner and can actually advance the natural ageing process of unlaundered indigo denim. This is defined by ljin Material as ” seasoning “.
The second cutting technique used is the” wrap-leg cut ” which involves cutting the cloth with a folded outer leg, as if using a selvedge denim.These are noteable by the fact that they have a completely clean finish hem. If they are turned up you will not see any unfinished or overlocked seams. Wrap-leg cut items are composed of only 10 key pattern pieces.This includes the 3 pockets. All ljin Material satndard legs are tailor-finished inside with a striped ticking lining , a coloured binding , whose colour is changed every year, up to 5 thread colours including the real lindigo ” invisible” thread and the classic union chain stitch hem, sewn on a vintage machine more than 60 yrs old.
ljin Material, however , will be five years old in 2008.lt is sold globally to specialist stores. “IJIN” is a very traditional japanese word once used to define someone as an ” outsider “, or ” foreigner “. It can sometimes mean “alien” , or ” black sheep “. These very words define the independant, self-financed company structure and label philosophy pioneered by Philip Goss , a Londoner, now resident in Italy. It is designed, presented and managed by one person and has been since 2003.
Ex St.Martins class of ’87, Philip has had numerous lives in the international design field. As creative director of Evisu International in 2000 for 3 years , he was reponsible for establishing the foundation of this highly specialised denim product line and then creating all of thecommercial designer lines into Europe. He now collaborates personally with Evis founder & friend – Yamane san – to produce a specialist denim line for the Japanese market only. His private label is called ” Evis 9055 -Philip Goss Edition ”