Browsing Tag

Evisu Jeans

Evisu Jeans – Vintage Jeans

Evisu has been one of the most widely discussed brands on the Kitmeout fashion forum. Take a butchers at this thread:

“Hi, i am doing some research on Evisu, and basically i would like to know what happened to Evisu… there was a period in the 90’s where it was an extremely popular brand, but now it has a certain stigma attached to it. i think this is a shame as they are doing some quite cool stuff right now, WHAT HAPPENED to their popularity, and what can they do to bring it back…

lets discuss…”

Full thread here:

If you’re looking for Vintage Evisu take a butchers at

Evisu, the Brand

Evisu has had a great deal of chatter on the Kitmeout fashion forum over the years. Here’s a typical post:

“pre ben sherman the brand was still raw and hidehiko was inspired t design. he then got soft with too much wealth during the ben sherman years when peter caplin took the brand mainstream. then post ben sherman the brand has moved into mainstream commercialism and has been partially devastated by the counterfeit industry and ebay.”

Take a butchers at a bunch of Evisu threads here >

“evisu’s high point in the uk at least was probably around 2000 – 02 (mellennium golds). it had some limited success in the usa a bit later. insomniax has hit the timeline almost perfectly.

tom when you say “there was a period in the 90’s where it was an extremely popular brand”, could you clarify that? very popular where and with whom?

btw, are you doing personal research or research for a company?

i think there’s a wider question here: what is the realistic life-expectancy of a brand like evisu?”

Save up to 50% on Evisu Shirts, Jackets and Jeans here >

Evisu Jeans resurrected?

There’s been plenty of chatter about Evisu on the Kitmeout forum over the years. Kitmeout was the first official store online to offer Evisu back in 2000. The Evisu brand has been up and down over the years and it looks like the brand is on the up at the moment. Here’s a chat from back in 2007 about Evisu in Europe. Read it here>

“Evisu jeans are marketed by a company called Four Marketing. FM also market / own the license to some brands aswell, the brands include : CP Company, Stone Island, SI Denims, Fake London Genius, Evisu, one of the alexander mcqueen lines………..and some others.”

Evisu Jeans No.0

Nice thread here on the forum about Evisu Jeans – take a butchers, visit here >

The Japanese line has 3-4 basic standard lines of denim quality and is denoted by a number on the patch. so No.0, No.1, No.2 and No.3. 0 being the highest in quality and price and 3 being the lowest in quality and price.

No.0 – It’s like a evisu prototype denim, seems very rare/limited and is meant to be more irregular and textured than the no1. Really no one knows much about it.

No.1 – 14.5oz. selvedge and made in japan. high quality and is not pre-shrunk (unsanforised), is slightly darker than no.2.

No.2 -14.5oz selvedge and made in japan. high quality but may be not as dark or seen as good quality as No.1 and is preshrunk (sanforised)

No.3 – mass produced outside of Japan in CHINA. medium grade quality and not selvedge. (sanforised)

Evisu Jeans – Return Path

A while ago on the Kitmeout forum it was suggested that Evisu Jeans were about to make a come back following their haydays in the 90s.

“…are evisu jeans coming back in to fashion. seeing them more and more on the fringes of fashion again.”

Read whole thread here: Evisu Jeans

A year after the question was posited it seems like Evisu are still on the fringes looking in at the favoured brands but their time back in the limelight is inevitable.

Evisu Jeans – back on the rise

In the 90s to early naughties, Evisu was one of the most sort after denim brands on the market. Founded by Hidehiko Yamane in 1991 in Osaka, Japan, Evisu Genes (aka Ebisu and Evis) was one of the most well-known traditional Japanese (raw) denim producers. Yamane was trained as a tailor and was “discovered” by the Ben Sherman leadership team. Moving into the mid naughties the brand started to lose its unique status and recognition and sales declined. But like all good fashion it looks like Evisu down-cycle is short lievd as it starts to gain the attention of a new younger audience. Keep your eyes peeled for the renaissance of the Evisu brand of related brands like Ijin Material and RMC.

EVISU 20th Anniversary “Make the Rules”Matzu for EVISU

As most people know, Kitmeout was the first site in the world to offer Evisu Jeans and Clothing online. Back in 2000, Kitmeout was selling an array of Evisu Jeans including the Millennium Edition. We have an affinity with the brand and are always privileged to make a post. Take a butchers at the latest:

To celebrate EVISU turns 20, “Make the Rules” project is rolling out globally and world-renowned contemporary artist Tomokazu Matsuyama is invited to artistically express “Make the Rules”. Matsu specially created an art piece for EVISU-Kirin, he uproots the traditionally reversed icon of a mythological creature symbolizing ‘prosperity’, and places it amid an abstract white space, dripping in a bright contemporary acrylic color palette. Matsu for EVISU limited edition jeans will be launched in A/W12.

Evisu Jeans x Red Monkey

Evisu Jeans x Red Monkey

One of the biggest anticipated collaborations on the Kitmeout forum has been the potential for Hidehiko Yamane and Martin Ksohoh to unite their Evisu and Red Monkey brands in a fashion extravaganza. As we all know Martin Ksohoh spent many years working with Evisu before launching the Red Monkey Company brand, so the history and affinity is certainly there for a partnership. Is it time for fan action? Let’s urge both companies to create a small collection by emailing them both with our ideas.


Evisu Jeans from gull to pheonix

Evisu Jeans from gullwimgs to pheonix
Six months into his tenure as global chief executive officer of Evisu, Scott Morrison has moved rapidly to reposition the denim and sportswear brand and revamp the company’s infrastructure. Of course it’s far too early to say whether the Mr Morrison’s vision will help the gullwings flap again but that hasn’t stopped the wild speculation. It’s been virtually a decade since Kitmeout first offered Evisu online so the brand is look on with much affection here. We’re also hearing rumours of a possible RMC colab. Things are certainly looking up for Evisu.

Evisu appoints Scott Morrison as CEO

Evisu appoints Scott Morrison as CEO Evisu appoints Scott Morrison as CEO

Scott Morrison, the co-founder of denim brands Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn, has been appointed as global chief executive for Japanese denim brand Evisu. Part of his strategy is to get back to the iconic heritage, clarify and simplify the brand message, improve the product and move the collections into a more contemporary style, which suits both European and American markets. Morrison is going to oversee all markets except Japan, where the brand was founded in 1991.

Evisu will move their worldwide headquarters to New York from Hong Kong, where its parent company Bestford Ltd. is based. Bestford and Peter Caplowe acquired the Evisu trademarks for all markets outside of Japan from Evisu founder Hidehiko Yamane in February 2006. The transaction was funded by New York based hedge fund Indus Capital Partners, which owns a majority stake in Bestford.

Evisu posted sales of about $30 million at wholesale outside of Japan, with less than $4 million of that in the U.S. There are 19 freestanding stores outside of Japan, with none in the U.S. Yamane still owns and operates the business in Japan with 61 freestanding making a profit of $50 million annually.

A small capsule collection of Evisu’ new direction will be shown at the Pitti Uomo in Florence and Bread & Butter in Berlin this summer. The fully overhauled collection will be ready for Autumn/Winter 2010 deliveries.

Scott Morrison, 36 years old, created in 1999 the instantly popular Paper Denim & Cloth label. As President and designer he quickly established the growing operation as one of the world’s premium denim brands. Inspired by that growth he began incorporating other areas of personal and cultural interest into the budding lifestyle concept. After almost 5 years at one of the first American success stories in the premium denim market Morrison decided to leave in 2004 to found and design the dual-fold concept, “Earnest Sewn” and “An Earnest Cut & Sew”. This venture lasted till March of this year, and with his hiring at Evisu he is again back in the denim business, this time at the helm of one of the world’s most iconic brands.

Interesting fact – The original Kitmeout was the first website in the world to sell Evisu online back in 2000!

Evisu Discount – Japanese Archive Collection

‘Evisu Discount - Japanese Archive CollectionOriginal Japanese Evisu Jackets available from Togged at 40% discount. All the Evisu Jackets are made in Japan and are archive authenticated. Including the following for a mere 130 quid: Evisu 5 pocket jacket – Archive evisu collection. 100% genuine vintage original. Evisu mens “5 pocket” light weight denim jacket. Button through. Cinched back, pleated front plaque. Embroidered logo on 2 Chest pockets & 1 back pocket. BUY HERE

Evisu – S/S 2009 Collection

Is the Evisu journey entering turbulent waters. The brand which arguably started the Japanese denim phenomen in the West has lost of of it’s credibility in recent years with many denim and fashion fanatics reminiscing about the good old days. Let’s hope the brand can reclaim some of it’s old start quality. Here’s the lastest offering:

Evisu Deluxe tailoring is inspired by Japanese naval details, such as the shaped patch pockets, a high-buttoning reefer jacket, sailor collars, and wide-legged cuffed trousers. We’ve exclusively used fabrics woven in Osaka Japan by Takisada Mills (Est Nagoya 1864, four years after Kanrin Maru’s maiden voyage), including a soft herringbone fabric woven from cotton and bamboo. As usual all canvasses are fully handstitched under the collars and all buttons and linings are hand stitched.

Our Evisu Heritage is inspired by Tairyouki (big fish flags). These are brightly coloured flags that Japanese fishermen fly from their boats when they have a good catch, to show the families on the shore that they’ll have a good dinner. Each village will have their own flags, decorated with different fish and sea creatures, waves, rising suns, and celebratory kanji. Ebisu, the budhist god from whom we derived our name , is usually depicted with a fishing rod and fish, so he is sometimes also shown on Tairyouki. This season Evisu Heritage is also inspired by a deeply researched homage to another great jeans brand- Lee. The HD Lee Mercantile Co was founded in Salina, Kansas, USA in 1889. Our denim maniac followers and others amongst you who don’t get out much will spot a lot of subtle Lee references and details.

In Spring 2009, Evisu Heritage uses four newly developed selvage denims, including No13 LEFT, a Japanese woven close reproduction of the early denim used by Lee from the 1910s onwards. Jeans cut from to13LEFT denim have the leather patch sewn on the left side of the waistband. The focus is on fit, fabric, production and detailing.

Ijin Jeans by Phil Goss

Ijin Jeans by Phil GossPhil Goss of IJIN MATERIAL a man with an unrivalled denim pedigree!

Despite such a strong background in the field of traditional japanese jean-making, Philip Goss and ljin Material choose to make denim product with the clear intention of presenting the classic “leg” in an alternative way. The ethos of the brand is artisinal denim ideas. Whilst remaining strictly in the field of specialist jeans making , the ljin Material item purposley plays with distorting the rules of denim know-how & detailing and specifically avoids simply making vintage replicas. Italian based and produced , this free thinking label specialises in denim craftmanship and single production runs. The individualism of ljin Material centres around the “Half-Man” logo which symbolises the symmetrical folding techniques inherent to the way products are cut. Fanatical attention to detail is apparent in the manufacture, which uniquely minimises pattern pieces, reduces waste aswell as fully respecting the heritage of hand-made detailing.

Two principle cutting techniques identify ljin Material denim:

The highly original J5030 “foldedge-cut” leg was originated in 2003 as an idea to re-present the traditions of denim in an untraditional way. It is a highly deceptive item , with many common vintage details that have been either exaggerated or re-interpreted. This ” foldedge ” cutting technique is highly specialised, with the garment centred on the stronger warp thread and legs which will naturally collapse around the knee . This is where the fabric reaches near bias point,creating an inherent softness to the unwashed cloth. Worn from dry these ljin Material legs will render your wear patterns in a unique manner and can actually advance the natural ageing process of unlaundered indigo denim. This is defined by ljin Material as ” seasoning “.

The second cutting technique used is the” wrap-leg cut ” which involves cutting the cloth with a folded outer leg, as if using a selvedge denim.These are noteable by the fact that they have a completely clean finish hem. If they are turned up you will not see any unfinished or overlocked seams. Wrap-leg cut items are composed of only 10 key pattern pieces.This includes the 3 pockets. All ljin Material satndard legs are tailor-finished inside with a striped ticking lining , a coloured binding , whose colour is changed every year, up to 5 thread colours including the real lindigo ” invisible” thread and the classic union chain stitch hem, sewn on a vintage machine more than 60 yrs old.

ljin Material, however , will be five years old in is sold globally to specialist stores. “IJIN” is a very traditional japanese word once used to define someone as an ” outsider “, or ” foreigner “. It can sometimes mean “alien” , or ” black sheep “. These very words define the independant, self-financed company structure and label philosophy pioneered by Philip Goss , a Londoner, now resident in Italy. It is designed, presented and managed by one person and has been since 2003.

Ex St.Martins class of ’87, Philip has had numerous lives in the international design field. As creative director of Evisu International in 2000 for 3 years , he was reponsible for establishing the foundation of this highly specialised denim product line and then creating all of thecommercial designer lines into Europe. He now collaborates personally with Evis founder & friend – Yamane san – to produce a specialist denim line for the Japanese market only. His private label is called ” Evis 9055 -Philip Goss Edition ”
Ijin Jeans by Phil Goss

Evisu Jeans + Evisu Heritage Line

Evisu Jeans + Evisu Heritage Line These evisu-jeans with cream or green brush painted Daicock embody the true spirt of Evisu with the bold brand signature on the back. From the Heritage line, these are unwashed raw selvedge denim with incredible detailing. One of the most popular jeans in the entire Heritage line.

Evisu Jeans + Puma Evisu = Go Green

Evisu Jeans + Puma Evisu = Go Green There’s Green and there’s GREEN denim. Most of us think of Sugar Cane, Loomstate, Edun or a list of other Eco-friendly denim offerings when we think of GREEN jeans. Evisu, however, have opted to take it literally and offer a pair of green-hued jeans. To quote the guys: “In addition to ring spun denim with which Evisu has built a solid foundation to their denim assortment in Spring/Summers past, Evisu are now adding an exciting new colour to their offering. For this Spring/Summer, they launch a green shade that will literally make all your friends green with envy. The Evisu designers found the inspiration for this hue when looking through piles of vintage Japanese indigo, as well as kimonos and workwear, all fell in love with it.”

Ben Sherman + Evisu Jeans

Ben Sherman + Evisu Jeans Bestford Ltd., owner of the Evisu, is to take control of distribution in the USA and Canada. Ben Sherman had been responsible for Evisu’s distribution for the last five years. According to a statement released by Bestford, the two companies agreed to an early handover of distribution rights. Sherman’s contract was scheduled to expire at the end of this year.

“This is a tremendously exciting time for Evisu in the U.S. and Canada,” said Peter Caplowe, chief executive officer of Bestford. “Ben Sherman remains our worldwide footwear licensee and we look forward to further developing with Ben Sherman our footwear business in the U.S., Canada and other markets.” Bestford will take over in the autumn. “Over the past five years, we have worked very hard to establish Evisu as a credible player in the U.S. and Canada markets and we are happy to hand back the reins to Peter Caplowe and his team with Evisu in a very strong condition,” Paul McAdam, Sherman’s North American president, said in a statement.

Evisu Clothing Fall 2007

Evisu Clothing Fall 2007 This season Evisu tributes the coming together of the East and the West, in Japan and the United States.

The Evisu Fall 2007 men’s and women’s wear collection debuted in New York City at Bryant Park’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week The Collection includes ready-to-wear couture and denim lines. For the fall Evisu designers were inspired by twentieth century Japan, and the merging of the East and the West

Materials and motifs include Japanese silks and luxurious loomed cottons in both classical and modern prints tailored in unique modern forms and volumes, combined with expert Savile Row tailoring.

RMC Jeans x Evisu Jeans = The Carnivorous Clown!

RMC Jeans x Evisu Jeans = The Carnivorous Clown!People could fairly be mistaken for a new collaboration between denim giants Evisu and denim new boys RMC; on one back pocket there’s the unmistakable RMC embroidery and on the other back pocket there’s a logo that could easily be mistaken for Evisu’s gold gullwing. This is no divine denim collaboration though, this has to be the weirdest fashion venture of 2006 since the big gold gullwing is in fact a big gold Macdonald’s “M”, the world-famous carnivorous clown.

Apparently Ronald MacDonald commissioned RMC and Eric Kot to design a new uniform for their staff. In response this unlikely team designed a basic pair of jeans using the 1001 model with the RMC signature Tsunami pattern on the right back pocket, and added MacDonald’s big golden “M” on the left. It’s almost impossible to believe that RMC would jeopardise it’s credibility by accepting this commission but then seeing is believing!

Evisu Heritage Collection v Evisu EU ED Collection

Evisu Heritage Collection v Evisu EU ED CollectionSo what’s the main difference between the Evisu Heritage Collection and the Evisu EU ED Collection. Many Evisu fashionistas will tell you “Quality”! Evisu state the following:

Evisu Heritage denim follows its Japanese mantra of UNCHANGEABLE. Colour is added in multi rainbow and plain embroidered logo. Classic fits remain whilst new styles evolve with a slimmer leg. Some styles use Unsanforized denim (which will shrink up to 4 inches after washing), a technique not used since the 70’s – staying true to its vintage roots. Striped selvedge emulates American work wear whilst patterns on denim and jersey are based on traditional Japanese gift-wrapping.”

Evisu EU ED is all Italian laundered with laser beaching and enzyme washing throughout. Its Jamaican theme comes through in Tee prints, denim stitching and trims in Rastafarian red, green and yellow.”

Evisu EU ED is also partially treated in Turkey. Evisu EU ED is perhaps an attempt to further commercialize the brand. Evisu Heritage is ultimately a purist jean which mightn’t appeal directly to the mass market. EU ED is perhaps an attempt to bridge that gap with styles and denims which are more palatable to the High Street consumer as opposed to the Evisu fashionista.

Evisu x Puma Jeans “True Love Never Dies”

Evisu x Puma Jeans True Love Never Dies is the name of the Evisu x Puma Jeans collaboration. The collaboration frenzy is destined to grow and grow until it finally reaches its natural conclusion and all brands throughout the world collaborate and merge into one mega brand called uniqueless consensus!!! At least Evisu and Puma have some genuine collaboration history. The Puma x Evisu trainers of a few years back were a commendable collaborative effort and to be fair True Love Never Dies is one of the best denim collaborations currently on the market with a very reasonable price-point.

Evisu Jeans Ebisu Genes Evisu Counterfeits!

Evisu Jeans Ebisu Genes Evisu Counterfeits Evisu, the original Japanese premium denim brand, founded by the visionary Hidehiko Yamane, is a relatively nascent designer brand compared to the traditional French, German, British and Italian designer names and fashion houses. That said, Evisu has undoubtedly shown maturity beyond its years and now leads rather than follows.

Evisu’s impressive success appears to run juxtaposition with the extraordinary growth in the Internet and online transactions. Original and genuine Evisu products were available to buy online as early as 1999 which led to an almost surreal intertwining of brand name and cyberspace. Evisu was one of the earliest, if not the earliest, brand to be direct associated with online accessibility which certainly gave the brand an edge and led to an explosion in sales. The echoes of self-adulation resonated from Japan to Europe, America and back to the land of the rising sun — all was rosy in the oriental garden.

No fairy story would be complete without a shady adversary lurking in the shadows — and it’s no different for Evisu, although their nemesis is not your typical dragon. The Evisu adversary is much more elusive but like the dragons of fairy stories it has many heads, in fact millions of heads and if it’s slain it comes back once more in a more determine and malignant fashion. So what is this online dragon? You’ve probably guessed already – counterfeits! Evisu jeans are surely the most copied garment online. The Internet is awash with endless counterfeit Evisu jeans. In fact, it is reported that Evisu employ people to scan the Internet seeking counterfeits in an attempt to protect their image and brand name. It’s said, they have several individuals specifically assigned to eBay — their job is to report suspected counterfeits and have them removed and where possible seek legal redress. Evisu surely have mixed feelings about the Internet. Cyberspace played a big part in propelling Evisu into the heady-heights of the fashion elites. However, it transpires there’s a price to pay for this success and the question on the lips of every brand must be: is it a price worth paying?

Evisu Saville Row

Is it true that you can actually watch the Evisu tailors at work – making the Evisu Deluxe range (formal / dress shirts, suits etc) at their 9 Saville Row boutique?

Red Monkey Jeans by Red Monkey Company



Martin Ksohoh of the exclusive ONE DOUBLE “O” ONE shops on the Kowloon Island of Hong Kong is the man behind the amazing Red Monkey Jeans brand. The brand concept was born of Japanses influence, constructed of specially modified colored cotton, woven into selveage denim, materialized into the form of the Red Monkey Company. A brand named after its creator Martin, who was dubbed Red Monkey by the Japanese native “YAMANE”, creator of the “AVISYA TAILOR” retail concept and more.

In 2002, Martin began working with engineered cotton harvested from a farm in china. The unique yellow fibre creates a very special hand feel and colour shade when woven and dyed with the indigo rope dying method. As demonstrated by the institute lepine in paris more than a decade ago, this cotton fibre allowed new processing methods to be done that were not harmful to the environment and also introduced a raw denim that retained the characteristics of rawness on the outside while the inner surface is plush, smooth and unlike any other raw jeans found in the market place.

RMC was introduced in hong kong to the lane crawford retail chain as an exclusive product, 3 years ago, and has enjoyed tremendous success along with brands such as seven, fake genius, evisu and blue blood. It has performed incredibly without a markdown or discount to date. It is a very specialized product that due to nature of manufacture has a very limited supply yet has created exponential demand. The design is pure vintage art, circa the 50’s and 60’s, and original japanese wood block prints embroidered on a traditional 5 pocket well shaped jean allowing room for a man to breathe yet not baggy. This is the industry standard, that tapers nicely at the bottom but not pegged.

As RMC prepares to establish itself in the american market it has expanded its fabric offering with traditional 32inch loomed selvage denim from japan, (double ringspun, indigo rope dyed, 13.75oz premium denim). The real deal! With white selvage end to end that identifies its unique heritage. The original engineered colored cotton fabric continues to be offered in a 5 pocket premium with wave embroidered back pockets that expresses the natural beauty and inspiration of crashing waves that constantly shape the island of the rising sun. Its not too distant neighbor, hong kong, has provided a foundation for the concept that blends quality, craftmanship and honor as principles, and offers a unique choice other than that found in europe or from the saturated enviroment of so called premium american brands.
In september of 2004 rmc opened its first flagship retail concept destination on the island of kowloon. This collaboration with erik kot has generated a cult following in as little as a financial quarter. The natural wood structure blended with black walls and ceiling creates a dark mystery that is well lit with custom designed lighting and red covered lamps that emit a nice glow over the centerpiece of the shop, a slice of a 500 year old tree from a chinese forrest. Nature is very much an influence as well as featuring creative products from other up and coming namesakes. Authentic japanese evisu is featured here, as well as, dupe clothing from the uk, tsubi jeans from australia and a new french tailored denim company. This hidden treasure on the back streets of tsim tsa tsui, (chim saw choy), bears gold medal product that beckons to be worn.


In the second quarter of 2005, 2 new models were introduced as well as an expanded fit range, a slim fit, and cinch back farmer will be offered. Denims are our specialty, so no there are no other items for america as yet. There are accessories, and there are novelty tops to be found in the shop in hong kong. You are welcome to make the journey as we have numerous times. You can then experience the tradition for yourself firsthand and avoid reading through our novel.

We invite you to share in our experience and dream. We welcome your passion and support. We share one slogan with you and hope you will spend some time with us. In life we find that if — ” you never try, you never know” belief is all it takes a little or a lot.
Peace and blessings
Martin Yat Ming aka Martin Ksohoh creator and founder of “RMC”
The Red Monkey Company.