Japanese Jeans – Kojima

OKAYAMA KOJIMA – Although just a small town in the prefecture of Okayama, Kojima has managed to play an integral role in the Japanese textile industry since the early twentieth century. Kojimas textile production history stretches back hundreds of years, but it wasn’t until post WWII that Japan became one of the largest producers of Japanese work wear and Japanese school uniforms. The first pair of Japanese jeans were produced in Kojima in the late 1960s.

In the span of a few decades, Japan has firmly established itself as one of the best denim producers in the world. As many of the High Fashion and American brands that inspired the first Japanese jeans chose to outsource their work overseas, the jean producers in Kojima chose to keep things local, refining their craft and continuing to use vintage looms and old techniques. The result is a culture of denim fanatics and an array of brands being headed up by true craftsman that care as much about their products as their most loyal customers.

Kojima

Many of the brands in Kojima produce denim from vintage weaving machines known as shuttle looms. The result is a high quality denim fabric that is only half the width of the rolls produced by newer machines but one with a more durable finished edge, originally referred to as selvage.

Some denim houses still choose to indigo dye cotton by hand using the leaves from the indigo plant for their most premium jeans. This expensive and tedious process, as well as many of the other techniques used to make premium denim in Okayama has its roots in kimono production going back hundreds of years. The combination of old-world technique, with a modern silhouette in mind has earned Kojima a place in denim history.

STAR WARS Jeans

star wars jeans

Here’s something for the true STAR WARS maniac. Take a butchers at these Yoropiko STAR WARS Jeans.

Yoropiko Star Wars denim jeans by Martin Yat Ming. Embroidered storm troopers on sides embroidered starwars logo/trooper back pockets Removeable 18k gold rhodium finished copper waistband and fly buttons Vintage cut house selvedge raw denim Gold metal thread embroidered belt loop. Black velvet embroidered logo presentation bag Made in Hong Kong.

Star Wars Jeans

BUY AT TOGGED

Take a look at these STAR WARS T-Shirts too:

Star Wars T-Shirt

Yoropiko x Headstone Limited Edition Star Wars t-shirt. Limited edition collectors item black crew neck regular fit t-shirt Printed Stormtroopers on front printed starwars on back of neck.

Moschino Jeans

Moschino Jeans

Are Moschino Jeans making a come back? Check out these blinged up denim strides. Many in the fashion industry predict Moschino would pass with Franco but maybe that prediction was ill-conceived.

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Sugar Cane Clothes – widest online collection

Take a butchers at the widest selection of Sugar Cane Clothing online at Togged.com

Uniquely Japanese denim made from you guessed it sugar cane. For many years, Sugar Cane Jeans were a ferociously guarded Japanese secret but today the brand is attracting global attention. Interestingly, Sugar Cane prefer to use the vintage term dungarees in preference to the term jeans to describe their product: The word jeans has become the vernacular for faux denim fashion wear that masquerades as the tough, classic waist overalls history made famous.

We have thoroughly analyzed our forerunners jeans from the 1900s in chronicle order from yarn, dye, weave and construction to components . We have with us the actual results of fabric woven and colour fade test on the original pants worn. In order to create our own original jeans, it took over 20 years of research. To perfectly reproduce denim fabrics from 50 to 100 years ago in todays advanced period is extremely difficult. To begin with we had to look for old power looms that had worked to weave denim fabric in those days, restore them and adjust them to weave the fabric we have. It was not easy to revive the old machines that disappeared a long time ago due to rationalization. Nowadays, the old power looms are not so unusual but in the early research stage, satisfactory fabrics could not be woven on the old looms found. It was a joint operation with the weaver of trial and failure and advanced step by step.

Sugar Cane denim by traditional Japanese dyeing techniques by hand and not by machine. The first model Sugar Cane Awa is made of sugar cane denim dyed by Awa indigo. Awa used to be one of the popular places producing indigo, located in the western part of Japan. The second model Sugar Cane Okinawa is made of sugar cane fibre and indigo produced in the region of Okinawa, Japan. The third model Sugar Cane Hawaii is made from sugar cane and indigo imported from Hawaii.

30% OFF Togged.com for Cyber Monday

Take a butchers at this Cyber Monday Sale from Togged.com. Get 30% Off sitewide, including brands like Armani Jeans, Hugo Boss, Sugar Cane, Evisu, Stone Island, D&G, Versace, Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and more.

Visit www.togged.com

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Designer accessories, including Boss Wallets and Gift sets, Armani Belts, Quality Scarves and Ties:

designer-accessories

Over Dyed Denim Jacket

The fabric is a 14 ounce Japanese selvedge over-dyed black over indigo blue over a slubby yarn. This is a great Japanese fabric made by Kurabo that has been over-dyed by them. Very unique and should have some great wear and fade characters. The denim jacket will be sewn with our vintage stitched rmc tsunami rainbow embroidery and have the original rivet construction. The out seam will be sewn with a clean flat felled seam so it will look special and great for style.

This garment is made in the Okayama factory workshop in Japan on manual and vintage equipment. No out sourced subcontractors are used to ensure the highest quality.

This style of denim jacket is made for the real denim enthusiast and extra care should be taken when wearing and caring for them. The denim has very heavy dye that WILL bleed. You would need to stay away from ANYTHING light coloured when breaking these jackets in.

Once they have been well broken in for a few weeks the bleeding should settle. You should not wash these denim jackets at all. Dry clean only.

We recommend cuffing at least one fold to avoid bleeding on to your clothes.

Limited edition. Made by hand. Only enough fabric to make a few more.

Available from
www.rmcjeans.com
http://shop.selevengallery.com/

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red-monkey-jacket

RMC ORJ 13oz/13.5oz Akamimi Selvage Button Fly Jean

This vintage was once an integral part of the one of one Japanese collection so RMC ORJ adopted this classic fitting five-pocket denim jean continuing to produce it true to its original form.

Featuring copper crotch rivets, donut fly buttons and the only style in the ORJ denim series to show the original RMC woven label on the back pocket and the original leather patch.

tabacco-denim

Thicker and specific tobacco colour threads are used to reinforce the authentic aesthetic. Reinforced half lined back pockets and Selvage coin pocket are standard on this model. The 13oz/13.5oz Akamimi Selvage fabric currently used within the RMC ORJ collection was originally developed exclusively with the denim history in mind.

selvage-denim

Created by the One of One team of denim masters, the most esteemed people of the Japanese denim industry, and using the expertise of the most highly regarded fabric mill in Japan.
The Japanese indigo cast wears uniquely from the unwashed denim which is why this style is only ever available in its true, unwashed form.

The ORJ collection has been exclusively developed for 2015 for RMC Japans 13th anniversary celebrations.

crotch-rivets

Evisu Jeans – Vintage Jeans

Evisu has been one of the most widely discussed brands on the Kitmeout fashion forum. Take a butchers at this thread:

“Hi, i am doing some research on Evisu, and basically i would like to know what happened to Evisu… there was a period in the 90’s where it was an extremely popular brand, but now it has a certain stigma attached to it. i think this is a shame as they are doing some quite cool stuff right now, WHAT HAPPENED to their popularity, and what can they do to bring it back…

lets discuss…”

Full thread here: http://forum.kitmeout.com/talk-fashion/6874-evisu.html

If you’re looking for Vintage Evisu take a butchers at Togged.com: http://www.togged.com/browse/Evisu_0_17_0_na_menswear.html

World Cup Jeans

Take a butchers at these World Cup Jeans.

world-cup-jeans

Genuine RMC Martin Ksohoh, limited edition super exclusive design, dark indigo raw denim jeans. Embroidered World Cup and Fifa football with milti-colour tsunami waves back pockets. Embroidered ticket pocket and belt loops. Vintage cut, house selvedge, raw denim. Five pocket, button fly, copper rivets, printed pocket cloth, red tab.

BUY HERE >

Gold iPhone Case

Looking for something unique? Take a butchers at this RMC iPhone case. RMC Martin Ksohoh Limited Edition, gold covered aluminium IPHONE 3 case. Signature logo and tsunami wave on gold background. Felted inner lined. BUY HERE

gold-iphone-case

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania T-Shirts

Looking for a unique summer T-Shirt? Take a butchers at this Vivienne Westwood Anglomania capsule collection from Togged:

vivienne-westwood-tee

Including this studded T-shirt:

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania white short sleeve crew neck slim fit studded logo t shirt. Large studded signature orb logo on chest. Small embroidered black skull and crossbones on left sleeve. Woven logo tape on side seam. Fine rib crew neck.

westwood-tshirts

RMC Jeans – 12th Anniversary

RMC, the ultimate denim experience, celebrates 12 years on the fashion scene. Take a butchers at the best online selection at rmcjeans.com

Japan’s precious cultural heritage – Ukiyo-e (literally meaning “depicting life”) – has been the main source of RMC’s sources of inspiration, with previous series leveraging precious Japanese national treasures such as ancient Kabuki beauties and Sumo wrestlers, expressing vividly Japan’s glamorous lifestyle during Edo era in every piece of jeans.

BigBang Japan Dome Tour 2013-2014 Bandanna style

South Korean group “BigBang” perform at Japan Fukuoka Dome, wearing RMC MKWS Bandanna pattern style.

BigBang-RMC-MKWS-Bandanna

South Korean male group under the management of YG Entertainment. Formed in 2006, the group consists of G-Dragon, T.O.P, Taeyang, Daesung, and Seungri. Big Bang is known for their unique urban-originated music and fashion style. The members’ involvement in composing and producing their own music, most notably leader G-Dragon, has earned the group respect and praise from music industry experts.

Discount Designer Clothing

In celebration of their Tenth Anniversary Togged are offering 10% Discount Sitewide. Brands include Armani Jeans, Dolce & Gabbana, Fred Perry, Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Red Monkey, Scotch & Soda, Sugar Cane, Vivienne Westwood:

discount-designer-clothing

Best designer shirts £70 – £150 price bracket..?

Take a butchers at this shirt thread on the Kitmeout Fashion Forum, including:

“Interesting thread this, you say that Paul and Shark are pikey shirts but then you say you want casual? Personally I will wear what is considered a dress shirt at any time of day and nearly anywhere. I define casual shirts as those things with crinkly fabric that don’t go near my back or belly. eg. Some Armani Jeans, Emporio Armani, D and G, some Hugo Boss etc. If you wanta decent shirt then stick to what is termed a dress shirt but there are such a variety of colours available and cuts and collars etc that they can be worn at different times and on different occasions.

To dispel a couple of things on here, don’t touch Boateng with a bargepole, all factory machine made, fabrics are diabolical and I mean that 100% if you have any sensitivity in your skin then they will itch. Boateng trades on producing bright garish colours saying he brings new style to the Row, his shop isn’t on the Row it’s Vigo Street but they are moving to their new location on Saville Row but like their neighbours Richard James, Kilgour, Gieves and Hawkes they attempt to profit from the Saville Row name to the uninitiated and produce developing world cheaply made shirts with sub-standard fabrics albeit not at a price like top end shirt makers charge they are positively cheap in comparison.

For your pricepoint I can recommend a few brands that will give you decent shirts and reasons why. You may at that point get a Canali Exclusive Collection, this is a line above standard Canali offering a higher weave cotton from a better mill feels almost like silk, big mother of pearl buttons, some hadnwork but minimal compared to Brioni, Borelli, Kiton, etc. but collar will be superb great strucutre won’t flop like the other rubbish. Many ar priced now at £199 but a couple are £140 so within budget and you can always scour sales occasionally some are in the sales. Also look at Zegna Couture, Zegna mainline shirts are not great at all they are a similar albeit slightly higher quality to Kilgour, ichard James, Boatng but I only ever get one if the pattern is superb or colour and I can’t get siilar from exclusive collection. The Canali standard line is superior to Zegna standard line but Zegna Couture however is excellent, in my opinion slightly higher generally than Canali Exclusive Collection. Prices range from £179 to £289 but again check sales you might get one or just stretch your moneys if its a special purchase.

Must make a point here as is one of most inaccurate statements ive seen on this forum, the mentioned Saville Row tailors/mostly RTW outlets producing shirts are in no way on a level near Dolce Gabbana. Dolce Gabbana is not D and G and never will be, one is young developing world made fashion clothing one is a line of Italian made mother of pearl button high weave quality fabric clothing. Dolce Gabbana shirts start around £179 to £390 and are incomparable to the other tat and must not ben confused with D adn G. Their pattern matching is excellent, buttons are all mother of pearl without an exception, styling is fantastic can choose from tailored fit, classic fit, slim fit etc these are good shirts, not Borelli, Brioni Kiton but still very good. You may get soe in the sale they do a couple of plain models that often pop into sales Harvey Nichols Harrods etc.

Brand though that I think you may like is Kenzo, they are muchcheaper price point starting at £75 going to just over £200 for more whacky stuff, fabric is nowhere near the above Italian shirt-makers but it’s respectable and won’t irrtate the skin, collars are where they let themselves down liek the above RTW Saville Row shirts they won’t hold shape well when waearig the shirt but you get what you pay for, however pattern wise they produce some lovely shirts particualrly ones that the aldies seem to love on men so that’s a bonus! Don’t go for what’s in the shops, head down to Sloane Avenue where the Kenzo shop is and downstairs is full of menswear and they have some very nice clothing, they do nice cashmere thin sweaters that can be worn without a t shirt or vest, they are around £330 but really nice but you may well find a shirt that keeps you really happy.

Also definetly look at Etro, Etro are a brand that can pnch above their weight because they weave and produce their own fabrics giving them economies of scale, some of the fabrics on their £150 shirts are incredible, really good, to get better you would have to go for Carlo Riva cotton which is used By some Brioni shirts, most Kiton and Stefano Ricci and then you are talking about £375 and way beyond. Some Etro is very extrovert but very little is actually tacky and they produce one of the best collars in the business. For me as someone who rarely rares a tie nowadays it’s extremely important that when open the collar holds shape and the shirt stays in place below the collar to create good symmetry, Etro collars are outstanding, go to their shop in Bond Street big selection but even better their store in Milan, hundreds of lovely shirts. When you feel fabrics also put index finger inside the shirt through where its buttoned and hold aginst thub allows you to get a great feel for just how good the fabric is. Promise you will be very very happy with an Etro shirt in a design you like.

Corneliani also worth looking at, stick to mainline, Corneliani ID I would avod, fabrics vary some are decent some when you step up to £140 a shirt ar very nice, theydo aprticularly nice high weave thin cottons in spring summer collection but warning will need dry cleaning after every where extremely thin fabric, beautiful to wear though and looks very good, white collar white cuff with patterns Corneliani are excellent at. Buttons all mother of pearl.

Also Armani Collezione, important not to confused Armani lines, Armani jeans clothing personally I won’t wear much of it. Armani Collezione price goes up but so does quality and change in style. Good fabrics, mother of pearl butttons some amazing cuts, very slim and inventive styling again way ahead qualiy wise and construction of Boateng, Richard James etc. Try them on though before buy as they come up mega small same with Dolce Gabbana slim fits.

Any questions please ask, will help all I can, from what you have said about casual, comments on colours etc I think Armani Collezione may well have something for you especially Spring Summer 2008 and prices are excellent from £100 to £190 I have paid. My comments come from my collection which has somehow gone beyond 80 shirts and if you want me to criticise any of the above brands I will be happy to do so there ar always bones to pick for me with anything I have!

One word of advice though advoid anything Jermyn Street as in these on permanent offer made in developing world plastic buttons shitty fabrics types like TM Lewin, Pink(some still in Northenr Ireland made but still terrible), Hawes and Curtis, Tywhritt etc. They move production to cut costs and qualiy just always suffers unfortunately. .”

Read full thread here


Buy Designer Shirts here.

designer-shirt

Do you ever tuck your polo shirt in?

Here’s a perennial question: Do you ever tuck your polo shirt in?

“Recently flicking through a mag there was a Purple Label Ralph Lauren advert and the guy had a polo shirt tucked in with suit and the suit jacket had the polo collar wrapped over the collar, this looked the dog’s danglies but obviously you need an ironing board stomach to carry it off, is this something you sometimes try?”

Take a butchers at the full thread on the Kitmeout Fashion Forum here >

ralph-lauren-purple-label-polo-shirts

RMC England Three Lion Jeans

Take a butchers at these beauties: RMC England Three Lion Jeans. Apparently these limited edition denim jeans are already trading 3 x retail and were limited to only 12 pairs. Perfect jeans for the 2014 World Cup year.

england-jeans

Visit www.rmcjeans.com or call (UK) 01733 564077.

Paul & Shark Shirt

Paul & Shark Shirts have got a lot of chatter on the Kitmeout Fashion Forum over the years. Some would even state Paul & Shark offer the best shirts on the market. Take a butchers at the Paul & Shark Yachting chatter here: Paul & Shark

Here’s one comment:

“I think it is quite hard to find!

I know Selfridges in London stopped stocking it a few years ago. There’s only one or 2 places I know of that stock p&s in London!

The knits are amazing – I got the Football Lovers top a short time ago (although I’m more of a Rugby Lover!) and it is perfectly made!

I suppose it’s the ‘wrong’ season for p&s! I guess their most popular items are knits.

I like this seasons polos/tees but I don’t think p&s can beat Ralph Lauren or Hackett in the polo game!

ADERO : I personally would not compare it to Henri Lloyd/NS. IMO its on another scale to those 2!!”

paul-and-shark-shop

Boss Orange – A Classic by Hugo Boss

Boss Orange is a classic that has attracted chatter on the Kitmeout Fashion Forum – Take a butchers here

BOSS Orange is HUGO BOSS casual wear line and stands for a light hearted, easygoing attitude. The casual collections are characterized by urban influences and are aimed at men and women who emphasize their own individual fashion style. Shoes and accessories, as well as licensed watches, eyewear and fragrances complete the look.

BOSS Orange Sale on now – Visit Here

boss-orange-jeans

Anti-Fashion

Here’s a debate worth a butchers on the Kitmeout Fashion Forum about the validity of Anti-Fashion:

“is anti-fashion still a form of fashion?”

“good question. i suspect it is if you wear a t-shirt to that effect. it’s all semantics. what is the true definition of fashion?”

“official definition =

1.a prevailing custom or style of dress, etiquette, socializing, etc.: the latest fashion in dresses. 2.conventional usage in dress, manners, etc., esp. of polite society, or conformity to it: the dictates of fashion; to be out of fashion. 3.manner; way; mode: in a warlike fashion. 4.the make or form of anything: He liked the fashion of the simple, sturdy furniture. 5.a kind; sort: All fashions of people make up the world. 6.Obsolete. 7.Obsolete. act or process of making. 8.to give a particular shape or form to; make: The cavemen fashioned tools from stones. 9.to accommodate; adjust; adapt: doctrines fashioned to the varying hour. 10.Shipbuilding. to bend (a plate) without preheating. 11.Obsolete. to contrive; manage. 12.after or in a fashion, in some manner or other or to some extent; in a makeshift, unskillful, or unsatisfactory way: He’s an artist after a fashion.”

Read the Full Thread

Alien Fashion – Star Wars Jeans

Take a butchers at this one on the Kitmeout Fashion Forum:

“a bit of a tongue-in-cheek question. do you think aliens would be into fashion? if so, what would be there fashion’s characteristics? do you think it would be androgynous?”

Full thread here >

Maybe a thread for the mad amongst us but why not check out these Star Wars jeans from Yoropiko. 25% OFF ’til the end of the February. See Here

star-wars-jeans

Armani Shirts and more…

Armani has had more chatter on the Kitmeout fashion forum than most Italian brands. Get a butchers here >

Kind of chatter about Armani goes:

“Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani has said he always looks east to China for inspiration.
“China has always been very present in my collection. Even before I came here, I’ve always been inspired by China, I have always dreamt and imagined Asia. It fascinates me,” he said in Hong Kong Wednesday.

With the opening up of the country, Armani said he hoped to further expand his business in the mainland.

“Since my last visit two years ago when we had only a handful of shops, today we have over 30; this is becoming a very large reality and there’s much more to come,” he said.

“In fact, the Greater China market now represents even a bigger market in retail than in South Korea where we’ve been present for 15 years. It demonstrates the speed with which the market is now growing and the potential.”

Greater China – the mainland, Hong Kong and Taiwan – recorded the largest increase in worldwide sales, up 38 percent, for the Armani Group in the first half of last year.”

Find Armani here for 25% off ’til the end of February.

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