Giorgio Armani A/W 2009-10Contemporary with a deliberate sense of shape: a dual approach that transcends that boringly traditional look so often confused with classic style. A new way of dressing in which the choice of fabrics and their combination in different weights results in a totally renewed vision of the classic, a union of powerful fabrics that emphasises the impact of the garment.

A fitted silhouette with restrained saddle shoulders defines the formal wear, while the sportswear, with its recognisable urban flavour, goes for soft volumes and suggests warmth without bulk. Even the padded jackets appear light, as though deconstructed, with neat linings in plush pile, while the parka comes in lined leather and the caban in ultra light sheepskin.

Colours are mostly dark – including brown juxtaposed with grey – sometimes with a velvet sheen, sometimes with a matt finish, always emphasising the general mood of elegant restraint. Knitwear features tapestry-style mixed patterns, maximising the depth of the colours – the effect is disciplined, and set off by the formal jackets.

This duality – dark/colourful, coarse/soft, classic/contemporary – is the key theme running through this deeply considered and precisely designed collection, in which scarves can be worn as shirts to impart vivacity to the formal jackets, while the trench seems to evolve into a cloak. Shoes are as significant as ever, reinstating traditional and chunky shapes in combination with unexpected touches of whimsy, reflecting the personality and individuality of the wearer.Giorgio Armani